Japan
Japan is of course a lovely country to visit. It was high on our bucket list as soon as we moved to BC after a few years of Eurocentric travel. We really enjoyed the trip and are now preparing to head back in March. This time with in-laws in tow. I have managed to get us reservations for 5 thanks to some great concierge work, now have to plan the rest of the trip. Looking back at our first trip by-way of this post is a good way to start.
We landed in Tokyo, took the metro to our hotel near Tokyo station (Hotel Ryumeikan) . Headed out to wander the streets and get a snack at a nearby izakaya. We had 3 nights in Tokyo on the way in. Our first night we headed to Imamura which we loved. We explored some of the department stores around Ginza, walked through the imperial palace grounds. Checked out Sensoji temple, and some nearby shopping stalls. The national museum was a worthwhile stop. We went to Metropolitan Government Building and enjoyed the views there, along with a stop at Shinjuku gyoen to see some cherry blossoms. We were having a bit of a raw denim moment so went to a few jean brands. I remember my spouse walking out of a changeroom at Pure Blue japan looking uncomfortable in jeans only to have the sales associate tell her that she needed a size down, which she bought. She still curses those jeans every time they go on.
We then used our rail pass to head to Kyoto, where we spent a week. Visited the usual spots, golden pavilion (Kinkakuji), silver pavilion (Ginkakuji), Nanzenji, Kiyomizudera; Ryoan-ji, philosopher’s path, nanzen-ji temple, Heian shrine, higashiyama jisho, Bamboo forest. Silver pavilion followed by the walk through cherry blooms was probably the favourite, although Kiyomizudera and environs was also quite special. Kinkakuji was a bit of a pain to reach on public transit and felt the most crowded but still quite impressive.
We took a day trip to Nara, saw the todai-ji and had a really nice time walking around the park. Another day trip to Osaka, checked out the central shopping area, harukoma honen sushi; samuri jeans. Then off to Kobe, ate at Sumi Yakiniku.
We ate at Kichisen, counter meal, kaiseki. We also tried Nakamura also kaiseki, very formal and traditional Japanese service with traditional seating. As well many casual meals, the food court in the train station near our hotel had a lot of great options, ramen, tonkatsu etc.
Our hotel (Sakura Terrace) was convenient for the train station, clean, and affordable. We based ourselves here for a week to include the side trips. Hotels in Japan in peak season can be pricy, and we were travelling on a lower budget at the time, but I felt we probably would have had a more enjoyable experience in a somewhat nicer hotel. This is a great city to use any hotel points you may have.
After departing Kyoto we took the train east to Hiroshima. We would highly recommend the atomic bomb memorial. Caught a ferry to Miyajima island. We stayed and dined at Kurayado iroha. The island is a very magical sort of place for a short stay, and quite a juxtaposition to the sobering introspection that Hiroshima leaves you with. Gorgeous temples and shrines with deer wandering around. We did a day hike in the hills with some nice views. I sported the yakata and geta (wooden sandals) provided. The former was too short, and the later were about half the length of my foot, I was a bit of a spectacle trying to get up and walk out after our meal. On the train back east stopped at Himeji castle, gorgeous building with the cherry blossoms on full display in the grounds.
Our next destination was Koyasan to spend a night in a Buddhist monastery. Seems to be a bit of a western tourist’s phenomena, my spouses Japanese friend had never heard of the place. It was an atmospheric enough location and not a bad experience but certainly the first thing I’d drop from our itinerary if one was tight on time. At stop near Mt Fuji or an onsen town probably would have been better. From here we were back to Tokyo.
We had originally planned on staying in Shinjuku on the way out of Tokyo, to spend time in a different neighbourhood, but they wouldn’t make restaurant reservations until we arrived so ended up booking Ryumeikan again. We checked out T-Site Tsutaya in Daikanyama and did some shopping nearby, pretty stylish neighbourhood. Dined at Ryugin, also kaiseki but less traditional to those in Kyoto, we preferred this for our palates. We flew home thoroughly intrigued and impressed with our time in Japan, the kind of trip that really feeds ones travel addiction.
Outline:
3 nights Tokyo
7 nights Kyoto
1 night Miyajima
1 night Koyasan
2 nights Tokyo
Planning Tips:
Tokyo is a great place to be jetlagged. There aren’t any truly world class sites from my perspective; but whatever your interests may be, they have it. It is a unique metropolis to soak in. 2-3 nights on the way in is a good plan. Kyoto is a cultural centre not to be missed. However, it is not a pretty city, and is a bit crowded. As well their hotels are poor value. There’s no easy answer for this one. I wouldn’t suggest basing yourself in Osaka and doing Kyoto as a day trip, three are too many sites to see. Perhaps best bet would have been 2-3 nights Kyoto in more atmospheric area, 2 nights Osaka (with day trip to Nara on one day). Add on one or two more destinations that interests you and a short return through Tokyo and you’ve got a nice first trip to Japan planned.
Japan-guide.com was a good resource, and japanesepod101 was great for picking up a few words of Japanese. Ensure your hotel has a decent concierge, otherwise you’ll end up paying an arm in the leg in reservation fees, I’d recommend giving them a test email 4-6 months in advance to make sure they are reasonably on the ball, most bookings open up 1-3 months in advance.