Iceland

Had low expectations for this trip. Tourism had really picked up in Iceland, and i was expecting lots of crowds. But with a new camera in hand and a tree less country to at least escape heat and smoke we thought it would be worth seeing for ourselves.

Upon arrival, we picked up land cruiser, really loved the vehicle. drove to secret lagoon. Was nice enough place, and good to freshen up after redeye. We then stopped at Gulifoss. It was as expected crowded. Overall not that impressive for us. We stopped in for a bite to eat at mushroom farm nearby, was not that great but not terrible. So far trip was lining up with my limited expectations. We then drove to Geysir where we stayed in the namesake hotel. It was actually fairly nice, good meals and comfortable room (best of trip). Enjoyed viewing the geysers after the crowds died down later that day and early next morning. We then started the real journey, on to Kerlingarfjöll. The drive in was fairly straightforward gravel road, interesting scenery. On arrival we checked in with new hotel there and headed up snakoller . Gem of a hike , only half dozen or so others doing it, was a beautiful day with great views out even to ocean. Views back to the rest of the range were gorgeous too. Had dinner (buffet, but not bad). Our room was way too hot (ask for room with bigger windows and/or close curtains during day.

We walked over to the hot springs nearby for a dip after dinner. Next day we did the loop around Maenir, viewing both the Hvaradalair and Hvarabotn geothermal areas. We were both somewhat speechless. What a unique landscape. The orange , with all the geothermal activity plus pocket glacier and bergscrund all in one frame. This hike was also very uncrowded. Going down to Hvarbotn had one tricky bit that would be sketch if wet.

Next morning we headed to highland centre hrauneyjar. This place had some pretty terrible reviews, but by far best location for our plans. They were actually really nice, food was reasonably good, would return. First day we stopped in at Haifoss, then drove on to Sigoldugljufir. Both quite impressive. As I was starting to enjoy driving the land cruiser and it was a nice day we headed to Hnausapollur. Beautiful view from the summit scramble, again only one photographer up there. Following day we did the standard combination loop at Landmannalaugar. Another gem of a day hike. This is actually a half day hike for fit parties, wish we had flexibility to carry on that day to langisjfur but then planning afternoon river crossings didn’t seem responsible or give us a weather buffer for this park. Following morning we headed on to F208 south towards vik. First time fording rivers so was a bit nervous, researched online, asked rangers and gave it a go. Water levels were low so was actually quite straightforward. What a beautiful drive. I would have happily trekked the route if there was no road. We decided to skip langisjfur as the hike we wanted to do there would be fully clouded in. Instead we took 210 towards raodibotn. The scenery and hike here was amazing, one other couple leaving as we arrived. Walked up past waterfalls to lake and did the crater route with great views towards maelifell and glacier. After we returned to car I realized that with low water levels we should give holmsa a try. I forded river in old socks I had just torn and found it about 45cm. So we decided to give it a go. Went well, we drove up to maelifell and took some photos. felt like driving on the moon. We then took f232 towards Vik. Crossing the waterfall was a great adventure. The water us not deep but the entrance is quite steep and required a lot of clearance but the land cruiser handled it comfortably. A fine drive though green hills and glacier views until we got back to ring road. This was one of the best travel days we’ve had in years. The sheer sense of adventure, having whole zones to yourself, and the beautiful setting, absolutely amazing, we felt privileged to have done this.

Weather turned on us unfortunately. I had hoped to do a full day at Thakgul, but looking at trail and comments thought it wouldn’t be a great idea in high winds and moderate rain. Also had considered Iceland trails aren’t incredibly hard or anything but they certainly don’t coddle you like some national parks in usa for example. We noticed some sections of many trails where there is some erosion and exposure that wouldn’t be ideal in wet conditions as rock is not solid enough to provide good hands anywhere. So reading similar comments about thakgul we unfortunately gave it a pass. Hoped to get in the next day for half day but forecast showed more of the same precip focused right over thakgul. Instead we did the shokgass waterfall hike , which seemed more worthwhile with limited visibility went to sloedufoss for a 10km day return with 500m elevation, very pretty and felt quite safe in adverse conditions on the way back. I think was right decision. That night after early dinner at sudor vik (nice place) we successfully found the puffins which were very cute. Hope to return someday and do thakgul + fimmvörðuháls or day hikes out of thorsmark.

We headed for airport region on last day as wanted to explore peninsula where forecast looked more promising. Stopped in at black sand beach, kvernufoss which was nice and peaceful. We were going to view Seljalandsfoss but it was a gong show with people lining up to walk behind waterfall – no thanks—we carried on. Krísuvíkurberg Cliffs were pretty. Then the rain followed us, we made a couple more quick stops, checked into hotel. There was some openings in blue lagoon in the late evening so decided to go there, was fine but would not go back.

Overall we had a fabulous time in Iceland. The highlands were simply stunning and unique even for two seasoned travelers. South highlands felt like a mix of new Zealand and Java but with no people. Kerlingarfjöll was simply unlike anywhere else I’ve been or seen.

i can tell that if we stayed to the ring route it would have not been great, likely would have been what I was expecting. However already thinking about coming back. Would love to visit eastern highlands, thakgul, langisjfur, thorsmark, and do some more hiking along f210. The whole situation seems a bit too good to be true currently so would like to come back before that changes. Perhaps get a raised land cruiser with snorkel to have some extra buffer for difficult crossings.