South Africa

After departing the Drakensberg, we drove towards Durban. We checked into the Oyster Box hotel, a classic south African grand dame style establishment. It is beautifully positioned on the beach and was stark contrast to our tent.   The Indian food that we had heard rave reviews of was perhaps a bit of a let down but the fish curry was quite good.  A swift monkey stole parts of our breakfast the following morning.  We headed to the airport where I was relieved to drop off our car, and flew on to Cape Town.

We were picked up at the airport, and driven to our first hotel Camissa house.  Enroute a bit shocked at the bluntness regarding race relations and ongoing segregated neighbourhoods.  Drove thru the flats and passed two townships pointed out by the driver, the first where the black people lived, and the second for coloreds. Being a mixed race couple ourselves, this is a bit jarring.  The hotel is a small boutique hotel in a residential neighbourhood.  It has a very sleek design, tasty breakfast (bo-kaap oats recommended) and high tea.  Service is attentive but could be more polished.  We had a meal at Salsify, great view neighbourhood, and very nice menu.  Started exploring South African wines.  Following day this was extended with a pleasant winery walk in Constansia, we didn’t want to drive out to winelands just for a day, and didn’t feel like spending a night this trip so this was a great fit.  The guide was focused on stories/experience, rather than detailed wine notes (I have sadly come to the realization I’m not a supertaster, and wine isn’t good for you) which we enjoyed.  Later that evening we headed to the waterfront before dinner at Pier to look around.  A market that focuses on locally produced goods was interesting, otherwise was quite glad we decided not to stay here.  Meal at Pier was first rate, again highlighting the quality of food in the Cape region.  If its any indication, the food at our hotel in JNB and Durban were clearly inferior to the cape experiences. 

After a long meal we headed back to our hotel to prep for a 5am hike on Table mountain.  This was done thru mother city hikers, although probably not necessary, we mainly wanted a guide for security in numbers and local knowledge; she was quite friendly and helpful getting us organized.  We came up through Skeleton Gorge, on the opposite side as the gondola, really interesting flora, goes through the top of the botanical gardens are the start.  I carried our full-sized camera for no apparent reason, as by the time we got to the top light was horrible.  There was a pretty reservoir at the top with really interesting colors that was fit for a quick dip on a hot day.  South Africans seem to refer to reservoirs as ‘dams’  rather than the dam just being the structure.  The country seems to be lacking in the natural lake department I surmised after we showed our zulu guide a picture of Canadian glacier Rockies lake and he called it a beautiful dam.  The fynbos is a major highlight, lots of flowers in bloom.  Quite hot by the time we reached the summit and it wasn’t even midday yet.  Great views down the cape and of the sprawled suburbs of Cape Town.

We checked out of Camissa and headed to Tintswalo for our final stay.   The setting here is stunning, so close to the crashing waves.  The beautiful rocks prevent it from being a beach spot but it was perfect for us to end the holiday.  It is also a great location for doing cape tour.  So despite adding to our 9 check outs on this trip, it was the right decision. We relaxed in our room that day.  The restaurant attracts non-guests with its breathtaking view.  Meal the first night was a bit loud with a large group.  Food is not in the same league as Pier or Salsify, but not bad.  After dinner we had our wood fireplace going with the patio ajar for the waves, combo is pretty epic in terms of noises to fall asleep to.  After sleeping in a bit we had a cape tour.  Really exception views continued along the drive around Chapmans peak just past the hotel entrance.  Some charming towns (Scarborough where every property seems to own horses) we stopped in a small farm shop to load up on Rooibos tea. We did the short hike around the tip of the cape, then headed boulders beach to see the penguins.  A bit let down by this, certainly they were there but it’s a bit too crowded/touristy to our tastes.  Next time perhaps the further out penguin colony would be a better option.  Had a casual lunch at harbour house, our driver/guide recommended the kinglip which was delicious.  We had one last meal at Tintswalo.  We ate on the residences side this time (recommended) and had some light casual options. Most guests opted for room service that evening as it was a bit cold/threatened rain but the sunset was beautiful so we were glad we did.  It was a short drive to the airport for the long journey home.