Canadian Rockies Road Trip 2020

A busy summer 2020 continued with a road trip to the Rockies.  We drove to Kamloops and visited family on way there then drove on to Field BC to check into Emerald Lake Lodge.  We didn’t have really high expectations going in, but thought it would be worth trying for one night and its location was perfect nearby our trail head for Iceline trail.  The lodge has been there for some time and the setting is beautiful.  The rooms are large, but a bit stale and dated.  The wood burning fireplace with is quite nice.  The balcony features a nice lake view.  Dinner was not exceptional but solid.  A value priced vintage Bordeaux was a nice hidden gem on the wine menu.  For those looking at the different lodge options, we found restaurant better at Emerald lake Lodge compared to Moraine Lake Lodge (visited a few years ago).  Whereas the rooms are better, and I would say the view/setting is as well at Moraine Lake. We did the loop around the lake, admiring the views that you see sprinkled all over social media.  The west side of the lake is more suitable to those not out for a hike. 

The next day we got up early to ensure we got a parking spot in the valley, had a solid breakfast at the lodge and then headed to Takakkaw Falls.  Iceline trail was next.  It was a pretty hot August day for the elevation so getting the ascent done early was nice, as was the shade.  The highlights begin after we got above the tree line.   Great views across the valley to the falls, reminded us a bit of Yosemite. The exposed terrain trail covers several beautiful tarns, a couple water falls and beautiful views towards the presidents range.  We turned around at the high point on the trail, finishing up with a very short scramble. On the way back there is another perspective on the views.  In and out shorts the day a fair bit instead of doing the full hike up around Twin falls.  Probably also an epic day but we favoured more time above treeline and had no regrets getting into Lake Louise early.

We stayed at Post hotel for the night.  They had a package whereby the only way to dine at the restaurant is to book the hotel as well.  We had dined here last time in the Rockies and it was the best meal of the trip by far so new we had to go back.  The reception/service at Post hotel is first class.  Very classic hotel experience, comfortable room, nicely maintained, another wood fireplace, quality amenities.  No view which is the trade off with Post hotel, but preferred our stay here over Chateau Lake Louise.  Meal was excellent again, they must have one of the best wine cellars in western Canada, friendly somm and waiters, and the maitre’d graciously present as before despite the circumstances.  They made us a tasty hiking lunch after room service in the morning. 

We met up with a friend and drove down to Red earth trail head to drop a car, before heading over to Vista trail head. We preferred this route in so that we could visit Gibbon pass along the way, as well the overall better including Arnica and Twin Lakes.  The flowers were in full bloom at Gibbon pass and the views across to Mt Assiniboine were exceptional.  We arrived with enough time to have a quick shower and eat dinner.  Shadow lake lodge is a well run operation. It was recently taken over by the Alpine club of Canada, meals were quite good, there are individual cabins (the ones closer to the main lodge have better views) so no real noise issues and lots of space.  Beds were quite comfortable.  We headed off to Whistling pass.  Were thinking of doing scramble up to Pharaoh but didn’t get started early enough and visibility was poor due to smoke blowing in from the BC interior that day.  The lodge is not on the lake itself, it’s in a nice corner of Banff national park but the hikes in the vicinity are nice but not epic. Keep that in mind if travelling from far and its going to be your only lodge experience.  The red earth trail is quite boring, we took this one out knowing this but had to drive up to Jasper so didn’t want to be too tired.  Whistling pass was a great day, but it leaves you wanting a bit more, and if you start venturing down around Egypt lake loop your in for a very long day.  Which brings up the next point, dinner is fixed at 1830, and breakfast at 8 so your losing a lot of potential daylight hiking time required to squeeze in longer trips.  Not sure why dinner couldn’t be at 7 or 730pm. In a normal year I think coming in via Gibbons pass and exiting via sunshine would probably be most interesting.  However if returning I think I would probably just camp closer to the Egypt lake area.  Will have to make it up Pharaoh during lark season someday.  Overall, I would highly recommend Shadow lake lodge but on the other hand I wouldn’t have traded the hiking of Iceline trail, nor Berg Lake, Skyline, or the hike up from Moraine lake up to Sentinal pass.

From here we drove the Icefield parkway up to Jasper.  Had not done this drive since I was a kid. It remains a beautiful journey.  It was a pleasure having our own car too as opposed to original plan of flying to Calgary and renting.  We stayed at Pyramid lake lodge in jasper.  Comfortable rooms, setting by the lake is much nicer than the motels in town and price point much better than jasper park lodge for our purposes on this trip.  Did a quick load of laundry and met up with friends for dinner (Alba).   Pyramid lake is a good spot for astrophotography apparently, but between wanting a good night’s rest and the rain that did not happen.

Next morning we started the Skyline trail.  Beginning seemed relatively straight forward but ended up taking a slightly longer version with branches off to bald hills.  Eventually you gain enough elevation to have some great views south behind you.   Most of the middle of the trek is above treeline.  The mountains are quite different than those south in Banff, more of a barren, gravel, windswept appearance.  We hit a bit of weather just south of big shovel pass.  We then headed down towards our rooms booked at Shovell pass lodge.  We had initially planned on camping but the booking process is so challenging that we lost out on the spots, but instead decided to try out the lodge.  It is a bit more rustic than most others, with warm water instead of showers, a heating issue in one of our cabins, and food that was not at the same level as Shadow lake. But it gives you the chance to do the Skyline trail so I’m glad we stayed here.   The beginning of the next day was exceptional hiking.  We had a clear day, got the elevation over with right away getting up to the notch, then did the short easy scramble over for the amazing views towards Edith Carvell and many other peaks.  From there you are gradually losing elevation following close to the ridgeline until you get down into the valley and cross by the Tekerra lake.  There is a pleasant if less impressive continuation down the valley and west towards signal mountain with views out towards Jasper townsite and surroundings. The last 8.5km of the trek are a mind and foot numbing decent along a 4x4 road until the trail head.  The middle ½ of the hike is truly world class and makes it all worthwhile, however the last portion and to a lesser extent first portion leave a lot to be desired. I feel like if this hike were in New Zealand they would have found a way to improve upon it somehow.   Back at our car we had a quick bite (Kimchi House) for dinner in town and drove the 9hrs home, thankfully we had the morning booked off.